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(三)
"Oh, you're playing cards," you say, putting on an
apologetic look.
They go on with their game. The long paper cards have red and
black markings like mahjong, there's a Gate of Heaven and a Prison
of Hell. The winner penalizes the loser by tearing off a strip of
newspaper and sticking it on a designated spot. Whether this is
a prank, a way of letting off steam, or a tally, is agreed upon
by the gamblers and there is no way for outsiders to know what it's
all about.
You beat a retreat, go back to your room, lie down again, and
see a thick mass of black specks around the light globe. Millions
of mosquitoes are waiting for the light to go out so that they can
come down to feast on your blood. You quickly let down the mosquito
net and are enclosed in a narrow conical space, at the top of which
is a bamboo hoop. It's been a long time since you've slept under
a hoop like this, and you've long since passed the age of being
able to stare at the hoop to lose yourself in reverie. Today, you
can't know what traumas tomorrow will bring. You've learnt through
experience everything you need to know. What else are you looking
for? When a man gets to middle age shouldn't he be looking for a
peaceful and stable existence, find a not-too-demanding sort of
a job, stay in a mediocre position, become a husband and a father,
set up a comfortable home, put money in the bank and add to it every
month so there'll be something for old age and a little left over
for the next generation?
Chapter Two
It is in the Qiang region halfway up Qionglai Mountain, in the
border areas of the Qinghai-Tibetan highlands and the Sichuan basin,
that I witness a vestige of early human civilization, the worship
of fire. Fire, the bringer of civilization, has been worshipped
by the early ancestors of humans beings everywhere. It is sacred.
He is sitting in front of the fire drinking liquor from a bowl.
Before each sip he puts a finger into it and flicks some on the
charcoals which splutter noisily and send out blue sparks. It is
only then that I perceive that I too am real.
"That's for the God of the Cooking Stove, it's thanks to
him that we can eat and drink," he says.
The dancing light of the fire shines on his thin cheeks, the
high bridge of his nose, and his cheekbones. He tells me he is of
the Qiang nationality and that he's from Gengda village down the
mountain. I can't ask straight out about demons and spirits, so
I tell him I'm here to do some research on the folk-songs of the
mountain. Do traditional song masters and dancers still exist here?
He says he 's one of them. The men and women all used to form a
circle around the fire and dance right through to daybreak, but
later on it was banned.
"Why?" I know quite well but I ask. I'm being dishonest
again.
"It was the Cultural Revolution. They said the songs were
dirty so we changed to singing Sayings of Mao Zedong songs instead."
"And what about after that?" I persist in asking. This
is becoming a habit.
"No-one sings those anymore. People are doing the dances
again but not many of the young people can do them, I'm teaching
the dances to some of them."
I ask him for a demonstration. Without hesitation, he instantly
gets to his feet and proceeds to dance and sing. His voice is low
and rich, he's got a good voice. I'm sure he's Qiang even if the
police in charge of the population register insist that he isn't.
They think anyone claiming to be Tibetan or Qiang is trying to evade
birth restrictions and have more children.
He sings song after song. He says he's a fun-loving person, I
believe him. When he finished up as village head, he went back to
being one of the mountain people, an old mountain man who likes
good fun, unfortunately he is past the age for romance.
He also knows incantations, the kind hunters use when they go
into the mountains. They are called mountain black-magic or hexes
and he has no qualms about using them. He really believes they can
drive wild animals into pits or get them to step into snares. They
aren't used only on animals, they're also used against other humans
beings for revenge. A victim of mountain black-magic won't be able
to find his way out of the mountains. They are like the "demon
walls" I heard about as a child: when someone has been travelling
for some time at night in the mountains, a wall, a cliff or a deep
river appears right in front of him, so that he can't go any further.
If the spell isn't broken the person's feet don't move forward and
even if he keeps walking, he stays exactly where he started off.
Only at daybreak does he discover that he has been going around
in circles. That's not so bad, the worst is when a person is led
into a blind-alley: that means death.
He intones strings of incantations. It's not slow and relaxed
like when he is singing, but just nan-nan-na-na to a quick beat.
I can't understand it at all but I can feel the mystical pull of
the words, a demonic awesome atmosphere instantly permeates the
room, the inside of which is black from smoke. The glow of the flames
licking the iron pot of mutton stew make his eyes glint. This is
all starkly real.
While you search for the route to Lingshan, I wander along the
Yangtze River looking for this sort of reality. I had just gone
through a crisis and then, on top of that, a doctor wrongly diagnosed
me with lung cancer. Death was playing a joke on me but now that
I've escaped the demon wall, I am secretly rejoicing. Life for me
once again has a wonderful freshness. I should have left those contaminated
surroundings long ago and returned to nature to look for this authentic
life.
In those contaminated surroundings I was taught that life was
the source of literature, that literature had to be faithful to
life, faithful to real life. My mistake was that I had alienated
myself from life and ended up turning my back on real life. However,
real life is not the same as manifestations of life. Real life,
or in other words the basic substance of life, should be the former
and not the latter. I had gone against real life because I was simply
stringing together life's manifestations, so of course I wasn't
able to accurately portray life and in the end only succeeded in
distorting reality.
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